Casa Chafariz: Portugal
“Stylish and affordable serviced apartments (for up to 6) overlooking a historic square at the heart of Santos, Lisbon’s flourishing design district”
Close your eyes and picture Lisbon: quaint cobbled squares bustling with life, brightly-coloured buildings illuminated by the sun, and trees sweeping across roads that twist upwards into the hills. It’s in this scene, adjoining a marble baroque fountain so exquisite it was classified as a national monument, that you’ll find historic Casa Chafariz. This striking, sienna-red building sits majestically at the heart of Santos, Lisbon’s artsy design district, surrounded by buzzy bars and restaurants that make your taste buds tingle.
Inside, classic Portuguese perfection meets chic Nordic minimalism. Five apartments each fill you with a sense of tranquillity: expect gleaming tiles, exposed wood and shuttered windows. French-Nordic owners Antoine and Katarina, both artistic types, fell in love with the city after a weekend break and immediately started seeking somewhere they could transform. Casa Chafariz was a wreck when they found it, but they have since created a stylish haven in the heart of Lisbon. On arrival, we perched ourselves in the window to alternate between watching life pass in the square below, gazing over Lisbon’s spectacular uneven rooftops, and marvelling at the ornate oasis in which we found ourselves. This is a very special place indeed.
Highs
We were blown away by the minimalist beauty of the apartments: a blend of Scandi-sleek, Parisian chic and Portuguese flair
Santos is an ideal base located away from central Lisbon’s hustle and bustle but still within walking district of key attractions
Colourful and quirky photos and artworks by the owners are dotted throughout, showcasing their favourite sights in Portugal
Teresa, Casa Chafariz’s manager, is incredibly warm, welcoming and full of insider tips
Lows
We’d have loved a balcony on which we could sip wine and overlook the adjoining fountain, Chafariz da Esperança (a national monument)
You have to ascend some steep steps on arrival, so don’t pack too heavily!
While our stay was incredibly quiet and peaceful, our apartment door didn’t completely muffle the noise of other guests climbing the stairs
Best time to go
“Lisbon is lovely all year round. We stayed in January and enjoyed bright blue skies and quiet streets. Early spring and late autumn are our favourite times of year, as the weather is warm enough to dine outside. Summer sees the city’s central streets swarming with tourists, but Santos still maintains some pockets of peace.”
Our top tips
“Head to Lisbon’s Oceanarium, the world’s largest saltwater aquarium. We spent an afternoon marvelling at the sharks, rays, octopuses, otters and penguins scattered between themed tanks (Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Ocean), before strolling along the promenade by the Tagus river, marvelling at the Vasco da Gama Bridge.”
Rooms
Strikingly-beautiful Casa Chafariz houses two one-bedroom apartments (Estrela and Santos) and three two-bedroom apartments (Miradouro, Chafariz and Esperança). Most boast views over the historic square below, bustling with locals sipping coffee and playing board games, while Miradouro has a panoramic view over Chiado.
Artistic owners Antoine and Katarina have designed homely apartments they’d “want to live in for 10 years”, and no detail is overlooked. They have effortlessly blended historic Portuguese features with minimalist touches. We loved the dappled grey and black marble countertops, the Scandinavian-designed and Portuguese-made wooden chairs, and the carefully restored stucco ceilings.
We stayed in first-floor Santos, perfect for couples in search of romantic respite, and loved how bright and open the space was. We adored the original exposed wood in Estrela, Chafariz and Esperança, and liked how cosy Miradouro was nestled under the eaves of the building.
Eating
Elegant kitchens open onto bright living rooms, and come fully equipped with everything required to prepare a light snack or a full gourmet feast. All essentials are provided (tea, coffee, oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and milk). The two-bedroom apartments have dark-wood dining tables, while the one-bed apartments feature sleek marble breakfast bars.
Breakfast can be ordered on request (24-hour notice required) from a local boulangerie and is served in your apartment. It’s a simple but delicious affair of croissants, fruit, fresh orange juice and a mignardise, plus, of course, tea or coffee.
There are dozens of great eateries on your doorstep: the information pack in your apartment lists some firm favourites. We loved breakfasting at Fauna & Flora, just across the street. For dinner, the simple but fresh food at Taberna da Rua das Flores is well worth the wait, while farm-to-table-style tapas restaurant Prado is worth the walk.
Activities
Get lost in Santos, an impossibly charming district full of winding streets paved with Roman-inspired mosaics and bright, tiled buildings. On Sundays, head to the effortlessly cool and artsy market at LX Factory.
You can’t come to Lisbon and not gorge yourself on sweet treats at Pastéis de Belém. The neighbouring Jerónimos Monastery is worth a visit, too.
Lisbon boasts an exceptional number of high-quality museums. We love the Berardo Collection Museum, full of modern art greats, and the MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology), whose architecture made our jaws drop.
Head to the Castle of St George across town, which boasts stunning views. While there, meander through the district of Alfama where you’ll find cute boutiques, as well as the city’s cathedral.
For a day trip, don't miss the Unesco town of Sintra, famous for its collection of palaces, each with sublime gardens.
Alternatively, head to the river beaches at Cascais; we love Praia de Carcavelos.