“Picture-perfect chateau with stunning food and self-catering villas for 2-8, set amid vineyards near the Canal du Midi; ideal for families”
Our jaws dropped as we swept up the tree-lined drive, through vineyards bursting with colour, to Château Les Carrasses - a 19th-century castle straight out of a fairytale. And this hideaway comes with a magical tale, too. It was built in 1886, at the height of Languedoc's wine boom, on the foundations of a pilgrimage rest stop. Over a century later it fell into ruin and lay abandoned for many years, before being rescued and completely transformed by Irish owners Karl and Anita.
Now, 28 self-catering suites and villas sit within the chateau’s original structure: bathrooms nestle in turrets, 3-bedroom villas occupy the former wine cellars, and the gardener’s cottage is a romantic retreat. Each has private outdoor space and is tastefully decorated with French antiques. There's also a heated infinity pool, a Mediterranean-style brasserie run by eminent chef Valère Diochet, and wonderfully warm staff full of local knowledge. Spend your days playing pétanque under pine trees and visiting Languedoc’s picturesque villages and markets, or drive 30 minutes to glorious sandy beaches. On top of being beautiful, this is one of the warmest regions in France, with over 300 days of sunshine a year.
Highs
The idyllic rural setting - 10 acres of vineyards, meadow and woodland, and the Pyrenees mountains as a backdrop
A relaxed ambiance but luxurious feel
Heaven for families with various sizes of accommodation (some have private pools) plus tennis courts and a kids club in July and August
Bikes to borrow; pack a picnic and cycle along the famous Canal du Midi
Mealtime flexibility: you can self cater, eat à la carte in the excellent brasserie, grab takeaway pizzas or get meals delivered
Lows
Seven-night minimum stay preferred in peak season (July and August)
Don't expect full hotel facilities such as a spa; this is a self-catering property with perks
You'll need a car to get here and explore the region
The brasserie menu is light on vegetarian options but the chef is happy to create something on requestSome private gardens are overlooked
Best time to go
Both early summer (May and June) and early autumn (September) are beautiful - the weather is warm and the area not too crowded. Wine connoisseurs, take note; September sees the region’s grape harvest so is a great time for winery tours. We visited in October and found complete peace, but temperatures were cool and we had a few downpours. If possible, avoid July and August as prices rise and restaurants are often fully booked.
Our top tips
Take a book and a glass of wine to the orangerie. It’s a magical hideout full of plants, books and sofas.
Make a trip to the coast: we had the most blissful day at Gruissan taking long windy walks along the beach and feasting on our French picnic while overlooking the lagoon.
Rooms
There are 28 self-catering suites and villas spread across the grounds, hidden between lavender, honeysuckle and jasmine, and amongst fountains. Suites occupy the main chateau and feel more romantic. They also benefit from traditional hotel servicing and incredible views across the vineyards. For honeymooners, we’d suggest the cosy and secluded gardener’s cottage (Maison du Jardinier), hidden at the edge of the property, with its own pool.
Within the former wine cellars, blacksmith’s quarters and stables, you find a mix of 2- and 3-bedroom villas. Some have a private pool or Jacuzzi; all have gardens or terraces. Our favourites were the atmospheric villas in the old wine cave with incredible views towards the mountains and mezzanines perched atop wooden beams (Les Maisons de la Cave).
Décor is chic throughout, blending modern comforts with original features and bespoke local handicrafts. Expect vintage prints of mushroom varieties, ancient wooden chests and gilded mirrors.
Eating
All suites and villas have state-of-the-art kitchens, equipped with every gadget you need to whip up a feast. Mouth-wateringly fresh produce is available at the local markets.
The Mediterranean-style brasserie - fronted by chef Valère Diochet - is a relaxed place for breakfast, lunch and dinner. In the morning, a long table heaves under a spread of fresh pastries, cheeses and meats - we couldn’t stop eating succulent figs from the estate. Lunch was a delight, too: pea soup topped with burrata, followed by grilled sea bass. For dinner, choose à la carte dishes such as pan-fried scallops with chestnut velouté or try the chef's tasting menu. We washed everything down with a bottle of the chateau’s Syrah. Perfection.
If you prefer to dine in the privacy of your accommodation, all meals can be ordered to take away. In summer, there's a pizza delivery service and barbecue packs are available. For a change of scene, there are wonderful restaurants in the surrounding villages; ask reception for suggestions.
Activities
Laze by the infinity pool with a book and soak up the views
Work up a sweat: the chateau has a pétanque court, a clay tennis court and a beach volleyball pitch
Enjoy a wine-tasting afternoon. There are hundreds of vineyards close by; try St Chinian, Faugeres or the Minervois
Borrow bikes and explore the chateau’s 10 acres of vineyard, meadow and woodland
Take a trip along the picturesque Canal du Midi - either by barge or kayak
Explore the Languedoc region: we’d recommend trips to hilltop Minerve, colourful Sète and seaside Gruissan
The gold-sand beaches at Serignan and Portiragnes are a 25-minute drive
