“A contemporary hideaway with alfresco geothermal pools, nestled between atmospheric lava fields, tumbling waterfalls and breathtaking glaciers”
The drive from the airport should have taken us 2 hours, but it took us 4... Iceland's ever-changing landscape had us pulling over every few minutes to admire yet another view: snow-topped mountains glowing in the sunlight, glistening waterfalls carving through moss-covered rock, dark clouds rolling overhead in a theatrical dance. Eventually we reached the ridge of a crater, and before us lay the striking structure of Hotel Húsafell - the perfect complement to the dramatic scenery.
Located in the unspoilt west, between the Hraunfossar waterfalls and the Langjökull glacier, it’s clear why the tiny village of Húsafell (permanent population 10) has long been an Icelandic favourite. Until recently, though, camping or summer villas were the only option for visitors looking to spend more than a day soaking up its natural beauty. That all changed in 2015, when the hotel opened its doors. Made from glass and stone, its 48 sleek rooms fan out from a central bar and restaurant, whose floor-to-ceiling windows show off the midnight sun in summer and the Northern Lights in winter. We’d intended to rush straight back out to explore, but we were soon lured by the delicious smells wafting from the kitchen, and the naturally heated water in the geothermal pools outside. There's no doubt about it: Hotel Húsafell has truly bottled Iceland’s magic.
Highs
Ideally situated for exploring Iceland’s west - ice caves, glacier tours and waterfalls are all nearby, and spectacular hikes start on the doorstep
One of the best spots in the world to view the Northern Lights, with an average of 3 sightings a week in winter
Two geothermal pools and 2 hot tubs, where you can laze while gazing up at towering mountains
Bright, modern rooms, many with private terraces and inspiring paintings by local artist Páll Guðmundsson
Sophisticated food which blends Icelandic ingredients with international influences (and a good kids menu for those travelling with children)
Lows
As with most places in Iceland, food is expensive and vegetarian choices are limited, but there's a bistro next to the hotel should you fancy a change
Double beds are actually 2 singles pushed together, and some rooms look out onto shrubbery rather than the landscape
You'll need a car to get here and get around
It’s quite popular with tour groups, but they tend to dine in a separate area so you won’t feel out of place
We found the WiFi a little patchy, but with views like these, we didn't mind!
Best time to go
Iceland is magical year-round. We visited during the height of summer and were welcomed by bright sunshine and endless daylight - perfect for exploring the great outdoors. To be in with a chance of seeing the Northern Lights, go between October and April. In winter, be prepared for snow and ice-covered roads (snow tires are a must).
Our top tips
We'd recommend hiring a 4x4 so you can head to off-the-beaten-track spots - minor roads in the region are narrow, steep and gravel-covered. Also, make time to drive out to the Western Fjords - it's a long day trip, but you'll be rewarded with quiet waterfalls, golden beaches and puffin colonies.
Rooms
The 48 Icelandic-chic rooms are bright and modern, with simple but elegant furniture, floor-to-ceiling windows and atmospheric artwork by world-renowned Húsafell resident Páll Guðmundsson.
We stayed in one of the Deluxe Rooms, and loved our huge stone-lined rainfall shower and separate bathtub. The bed, complete with Icelandic woollen blankets, was sumptuously soft and hard to leave, despite the promise of adventure outside. We also liked the look of the Superior Deluxes, which boast terraces where you can curl up for a private viewing of the midnight sun in summer or the Northern Lights in winter. Both Deluxes and Superior Deluxes have sofas that can be made up as extra beds if needed.
There's also a sole Suite, which has a separate living area, and smaller but well-equipped Standard Rooms (shower only). Views aren’t dependent on room type, so we’d suggest requesting one which overlooks the geothermal pools and ravine.
If you're after yet more seclusion, there's a Holiday Cabin set 2km from the hotel. It has 2 double bedrooms, a living room, a fully-equipped kitchen and a private terrace with a hot tub. Note, however, that breakfast isn't included, and the design scheme is different to that of the hotel.
Eating
Simply put, the restaurant (open daily) is spectacular. Walls of glass provide panoramic views of snow-capped mountains, ravines and distant waterfalls, and a contemporary copper firepit glows in the centre of the space.
The seasonal, Nordic-inspired lunch and dinner menus are short but delicious, with lots of local ingredients (Icelandic lamb, blue mussels, berries) and a few international twists. We loved our baked carrot with white beans, grilled lemon and a nut vinaigrette, and the tonka brûlée with a pistachio sponge and passion-fruit sorbet was light yet full of flavour. Breakfast is a spread of all the usual suspects (cheeses, cold cuts, croissants, cereals, fruit, yoghurt), as well as a few hot dishes - the perfect set-up for a day of exploring.
There's also a lounge-like bar with a wide choice of wines, beers, gins and cocktails. And if you fancy a change of scene, the Húsafell Bistro (next door to the hotel) offers simple dishes such as burgers and pizza.
Activities
Take a dip in the geothermal pools. They're open year-round, and there's something special about being immersed in wonderfully warm water while snow falls around you. Flotation gear can even be provided to help you bob around at leisure
A number of hikes leave from the hotel - just ask at reception for maps. We particularly enjoyed the trail leading into the nearby ravine
Head to the Langjökull glacier, the second largest ice field in the country. The 'Into the Glacier' experience takes you 40m below its surface, through a 550m-long tunnel which glows blue - we’ve never seen anything like it
Visit the Hallmundarhraun lava field to explore Víðgelmir, one of the largest and best-preserved lava caves in the world
Marvel at the spectacular Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls, a short drive away
Staff can also arrange horse riding, helicopter rides, ice climbing, snowmobiling and canoeing, and Húsafell has its own golf course should you fancy a putt
