“Gorgeous hilltop B&B with rustic design touches and a salt-water pool, overlooking the Cevennes national park”
Once a crumbling ruin in the picture-perfect hamlet of Monteil, this former farmhouse was painstakingly restored into a rustic-chic hideaway by artist Olivier and his design-savvy wife, Caroline. The couple spent a year living off-grid in a forest while they built walls, tended to the gardens and sourced furniture, and the result is simply breathtaking; the love that has gone into this restoration can be felt throughout. Old barn doors have been given new life as tables, windows have been added to frame the dramatic Cevennes mountains, and pieces of wrought iron have been upcycled into mirrors.
Wrapped in peace, our days here were magical, spent lazing by the lavender-fringed pool and exploring this extraordinary region of France, with its ancient caves, hair-pin roads and some of the country’s prettiest villages. We can't wait to come again and sit, glass of cool wine in hand, feet submerged in the pool, gazing out across the pristine rolling landscapes of the Gard as night falls.
Highs
Caroline and Olivier couldn’t be warmer or more welcoming, and they’re full of local recommendations
The setting is heaven, with long views over vineyards and olive groves to the Cevennes mountains
Just 6 great-value bedrooms, all unique, all special
A French feast for breakfast, and wonderful dinners on certain nights
Perfect for couples in search of a romantic retreat, or friends seeking outdoor adventures: bikes to hire, hiking, pot-holing, rock climbing and kayaking nearby
Lows
It gets booked up incredibly quickly
You'll need a car to explore the region
Restaurants are a drive away and in low season many are closed
The WiFi was a little hit and miss, but we were here to switch off
Best time to go
The region is stunning throughout the year, but our favourite time is spring, just after Easter, when everyone comes out of hibernation, cafés and restaurants reopen, the trees are covered in blossom, but the region is still empty of visitors. Autumn is also spectacular. Summer can be hot, but you can cool off in the salt-water pool.
Our top tips
If you enjoy cycling, talk to Olivier. He is a passionate cyclist and can guide you through the most spectacular countryside routes, out into the mountains. Easier routes can be suggested for those who, like us, enjoy a leisurely cycle with frequent stops for French food! The guesthouse has bikes to hire.
Rooms
There are 6 rooms, including a self-contained apartment in the garden (the Duplex). We stayed in Room 1, and fell head-over-heels for its original curved ceiling and exposed brickwork. A table, made by Olivier, rests atop a hand-woven rug; wildflowers sit in vases on wooden shelves, and the sumptuous bed is covered with white linens and a soft grey throw. The bathroom is lovely too, with patterned tiles, organic toiletries by Oceopin, and a rainfall shower.
The other rooms are similarly striking, some nestled beneath the eaves. Room 4 has a vast bathtub and an extra bed (good for families), Room 5 has a lovely sitting area. We’d recommend the Duplex for couples; beautifully romantic with huge windows at the end of the bed, a basic kitchenette, and a fireplace in its living area.
Note, there are no bathrobes or TVs. All rooms have access to the kitchen's honesty bar, guest lounge and terrace.
Eating
Breakfast is served on the vast terrace (or in the kitchen on rare grey days), and is a marvellous French feast. The local baker drops bread and pastries off at the house each morning, and Caroline complements these with homemade pancakes, local honey, fresh yogurt, seasonal fruit, organic granola and an array of cheeses. We loved sitting in the morning sun, overlooking the mountains, sipping on fresh coffee and talking to the other guests. Duplex guests can have breakfast for an additional cost.
Caroline can put together picnics on request, and you can join evening meals with advance notice on Mon or Weds. Generous tapas platters are also available.
There are some excellent restaurants in the surrounding villages - ask Caroline and Olivier for recommendations (you'll need to drive).
Activities
Laze by the pool, then play a round of petanque, accompanied by a glass of local wine from the honesty bar
Visit the Caverne du Pont d’Arc, a replica of the original Unesco world heritage site: it holds some of the earliest cave paintings ever found, and they are simply awe-inspiring
Hike in the Cevennes national park, or hire bikes; the Tour du France loops through this area, and Olivier can recommend routes and even guide you
Spend a day at the Gorges de l’Ardèche, an impressive canyon with steep walls, sandy beaches and free-standing arches spanning the Ardèche river. The drive through the gorge is spectacular, or you can hire kayaks to float throughCycle to local vineyards
Head to medieval La Roque-sur-Ceze, one of the most beautiful villages in France, with pretty cobbled streets. While there, walk along the river to the impressive Sautadet Falls and swim in the river
There are fantastic regional markets; nearby Barjac's is on a Friday morning, and many of the stall holders are local farmers, craftsmen and bakers. At Easter and in August there is an international brocante(antique and second-hand market)
