“Super-chic self-catering houses and apartments nestled amongst fragrant gardens in a converted Provençal mas”
Our journey to this grand country hideaway, located in the Gard Provençal, has taken us along roads lined with plane trees, past vineyards and olive groves, through historic towns and over winding rivers. As we sweep past the blue gates of the terracotta-hued mas, through lavender- and jasmine-scented gardens, to our stylish home for the night, we feel a sense of utter contentment descend. It’s not long before we’re lounging on the grapevine-shaded terrace, a glass of locally produced wine in hand, entranced by the early summer sun as it dips behind the rolling Cévennes hills.
Christophe and Christine took over ownership of this former farm and winery in 2018, and are incredibly warm, welcoming and enthusiastic hosts. The 8 elegant self-catering houses and apartments (sleeping up to 11) effortlessly weave contemporary décor in with the rejuvenated farmhouse fixtures. Now it's a place for everyone: we spotted a couple lazing by the communal pool, toddlers exploring the gardens, and friends engrossed in a game of boules. Spend your days sourcing supper at Uzès’ famous market, admiring the Roman Pont du Gard or taking day trips to the coast before cosying up on your private terrace. A real Provençal paradise.
Highs
Great-value 2- to 5-bedroom houses and apartments, ideal for families in search of a home from home or couples wanting a romantic retreat
The owners are incredibly friendly and helpful. We felt completely at ease and would have been quite happy if our flights home had been cancelled indefinitely
Well-equipped kitchens and industrial-inspired décor including bold prints, vintage maps and original artefacts from the farm
An authentic French setting - we loved driving between towns and visiting farm shops selling distinctive local produce: cherries, peaches, apricots, olives and truffles
We could have stayed amongst the lavender-filled gardens for hours, watching dragonflies, splashing about the pool and perhaps occasionally playing boules
Lows
You’ll need a car to make the most of this spectacular area; Saint-Victor-des-Oules has oodles of character but no restaurants (but there is a daily bakery delivery service)Technology is limited: there are no in-room TVs
Due to the layout, Jasmin is only suitable for children aged 8+
There’s a 7-night minimum stay during July and August (with a Saturday changeover day)
Check the payment and cancellation policy carefully, a security deposit and cleaning fee is required
Best time to go
Le Mas des Oules is a great year-round destination, but we think it would be at its best in late spring, when the gardens are full of flowers, or in early autumn when the leaves are golden - crowds would also be thinner. During the summer there are numerous festivals in the area, while winter sees Christmas markets, fireworks and illuminations.
Our top tips
Get up early on a Saturday or Wednesday morning, pack a picnic basket and your swimming gear, and head to Uzès. Buy lots of delicious fresh produce from the market - perhaps have a coffee and a pastry - then head to the Pont du Gard. Swim in the river, laze on the stony beach (there are wooden cabanas to use on a first-come, first-served basis), eat your picnic, and marvel at the grand structure.
If you suffer from hay fever, bring plenty of medication! The grounds are full of pollen, but they’re so beautiful you’ll want to spend all your time there anyway
Rooms
The houses and apartments are located within one huge converted outbuilding and are named after plants found in the garden. Ranging from 2 to 5 bedrooms, they have white-washed walls, exposed stonework and soft grey Farrow and Ball floors. Open-plan living-dining-kitchen areas are bright and airy, and bathrooms come with either powerful showers or enticing bathtubs, plus each house has its own terrace for alfresco dining.
Interiors are industrial-inspired and feature mismatched items from international designers. You may find metallic tables by Madam Stoltz, wire storage by House Doctor DK, dark sofas by Bloomingville, or crate-style shelves by Chehoma. These are paired with splashes of colour in the form of vintage French Rossignol school maps, vibrant 1950s Jung-Koch-Quentell botanical charts, printed cushions and fresh flowers. It’s clear that care has been poured into every space.
Jasmin overlooks the gardens, with 2 mezzanine sleeping areas and a shower bathroom; due to the layout it's only suitable for children over 8 years old. Clematite is a split-level house with a double and a single bedroom that looks out over the communal courtyard, and a beautiful wisteria-covered terrace. Agave, a first-floor courtyard-facing apartment, sleeps 4 in 2 bedrooms (1 double and 1 twin) and has stunning views across the plains to the Cévennes hills. Genet has a secluded outside space and airy mezzanine lounge, while Dahlia boasts a suntrap terrace.
Best for larger families are delightful 3-bedroom Belle de Nuit (where we stayed during our 2018 visit), 3-bedroom Amaryllis or 5-bedroom Magnolia. Amaryllis is set entirely on the ground floor, overlooking the hills; palatial Belle de Nuit feels like a genuine home from home, complete with a courtyard-facing wisteria-covered terrace; Magnolia is enormous and comes with its own garden and private pool.
Eating
Sleek kitchens flow into bright living rooms and come stocked with all you need to cook. You get smart dining tables inside and out, so you can eat on your shaded terrace overlooking the courtyard or garden, or inside the cool mas if the temperature is too high.
All the essentials such as tea, coffee, vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper are provided, and the local baker comes by daily around 9/10am, sometimes with croissants, so you can buy freshly baked goodies that morning (excluding Sundays). Other than that, the nearest supermarket is just a 5-minute drive away in the neighbouring village of Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie. All the nearby villages have market days where stalls groan under the weight of local produce; Saint-Quentin’s is on Tuesdays and Fridays, while Uzès has a small market on Wednesdays and a huge Saturday market that is widely considered the best in all of Provence. Stock up on olives, pâtés, succulent fruit and veg, cheese and fresh fish - including some juicy-looking oysters - as well as crusty bread and meat calling out for the barbecue (available to borrow at the mas). In summer tapas and wine may be available some evenings. Please ask when booking for further details.
There are numerous local restaurants: just let Christophe know what you feel like and he’ll book you a table (and even a taxi if you’d prefer not to drive). Otherwise head into Uzès and explore its many restaurants and bars - we ate at Terroirs A Uzès in La Place aux Herbes (the main square) and found the atmosphere to be really relaxed. Our meal was bursting with fresh, local produce: an open sandwich topped with olive tapenade, pélardon cheese and ham, along with a trio of homemade dips and a fresh salad, followed by a huge slice of tiramisu (so impressive it prompted the lady on the next table to order "Whatever they’re having!").
Activities
Pop into Uzès on Wednesday or Saturday for market day - we'd recommend the latter, but go early! We arrived at 9am and within the hour the streets were fit to burst. The stalls sell everything from linens and pottery to food and flowers. While in town, stop by the impressive home of the first duchy of France
The extraordinary UNESCO-listed Pont du Gard is just a 15-minute drive away. Built in the 1st century, this 360m-long, 50m-high aqueduct helped provide Nîmes' citizens with fresh water for 5 centuries. Walk over it, kayak under it, or sit on the riverbank and marvel at it
Visit the nearby town of Tavel to sample the famous Tavel rosé, a former favourite of the royalty in court at Avignon. It's strewn with wineries, each selling the sweet pink tipple straight from the source. The wine fields of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are close by, too
Browse the dozens of pottery workshops and ateliers that line the quaint, hilly streets of Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie (a 5-minute drive away). The village has had an international reputation for ceramics since the 14th century, and you'll find everything from decorative sculptures to functional garden pots
Take part in a pottery or jewellery making workshop, which run weekly at the hotel during the summer
Day-trip to the Maison Carrée in Nîmes, one of the best-preserved Roman temples in the world. Or head to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence to see the asylum where Van Gogh painted his famous 'Saint-Paul Asylum, Saint-Rémy' series. Avignon, Montpellier and Arles are also within 1 hours' drive
There are numerous Mediterranean beaches within an hour and a half’s drive - just head south!
Back at Le Mas des Oules you can read on your terrace, sprawl on a lounger by the pool, play boules and table tennis on the lawn, or catch the sunset from the communal terrace
