“Off-the-beaten-track wonderland: a boutique hotel spread across an authentic French village, with acres of vineyards and 3 great restaurants”
Assignan - a tiny hilltop hamlet, hidden along twisting mountain roads amongst pine trees and vineyards - isn’t as it seems. Once a sleepy and rundown wine producer, it’s been transformed into a secret paradise for those in the know. As we stepped out of our car, the smell of fresh figs filled the air, birdsong danced in our ears, and, ahead, we spotted dashes of the hotel's signature reds, pinks and purples.
Dutch owner Marc and his wife rescued Assignan's chateau from ruin, and turned it into their home. They then rejuvenated the local vineyards and started producing wine so good they needed somewhere for people to stay after tastings! So they transformed several crumbling houses into 22 enchanting bedrooms, and breathed fresh life into the village square, adding 3 exceptional restaurants and a bar. If you can bear to pull yourself away from the sunny pools, take a buggy ride around 150 hectares of chateau land, which contain vineyards, a truffle forest and a wine cave for tastings. Or take cooking lessons and rent a classic Citroën or Vespa to explore the Languedoc countryside. This is a place like no other.
Highs
Food is phenomenal. Each of the restaurants (a French bistro, Thai fusion, and fine dining) celebrates local produce in different ways
The serene setting with views across the vineyards to the snow-topped Pyrenees mountains
Truly romantic
Delightful decor: French antiques, old wooden beams, deep standalone tubs and exposed stone walls
Great staff and friendly locals
Lows
Breakfast isn't included in the rates
Some might find the colour scheme (inspired by wine hues) a little much, but we thought it worked wonderfully
The restaurants aren't all open every day
Proudly WiFi free (except in the wine cave), a limited mobile signal and no TVs
Best time to go
Early autumn is the most magical time as the village is a little quieter and the weather is still warm and dry, plus the vines hang heavy with grapes. Spring (April-May) is lovely, with balmy temperatures and colourful flowers; summer is glorious but busy; and winter would be very romantic, with open fires and candelit meals. Bear in mind that the food here is very seasonal, so if you’re craving specific French flavours, you should plan your trip accordingly! Closed Jan-March.
Our top tips
For total romance, ask to have a private dinner in the chateau's grounds. You can dine in the truffle forest, amongst the vines, or on the secret terrace overlooking the valley. Wherever you eat, be sure to wash it down with the estate’s exceptional wine (we loved the sparkling rosé).
Rooms
Bedrooms come in 4 categories, featuring rich hues of deep red, purple and hot pink. They are each decorated with unique touches - some have exposed wooden beams and gilded mirrors, others velvet drapes or Asian antiques collected by Marc on his travels. All have sumptuous beds and rainfall showers, and a few have mezzanine sitting areas.
We stayed in one of the Junior Suites located in Maison d’Amis, the former wine-storage house located at the edge of the village. We loved the standalone tub at the end of the bed, with views of distant mountain peaks. There are also Prestige Suites in Maison d’Amis, and the house has its own kitchen, living room, garden and pool.
Standard Rooms (Vendangeurs) are the smallest, and found in the former grape-pickers' cabins. They are cosy, but each have their own terrace. Other Prestige Suites are found in village houses, which are painted in Castigno's signature colours, so they're easily identifiable. We loved the one we saw, spread over 3 floors, with a open fireplace and roof terrace.
There’s also a modern 2-bedroom villa (Villa Rouge) with a kitchen, garden and private pool. We missed the traditional French accents found in the other rooms, but its outdoor space is exceptional; ideal for families.
Eating
Pack elasticated trousers: the food is outstanding! At the heart of the village is the French bistro, La Petite Table, and the Thai restaurant, Le Thai. Two minutes away is the gastronomic La Table.
Breakfast is served at La Petite Table, either in the sun-dappled square or in the rosy-pink dining room. It’s an indulgent French affair that moves through power shots of ginger, orange, apple and cardamom, buttery croissants, then creamy scrambled eggs served in individual pans and a magnificent charcuterie.
Dinner at La Petite Table was excellent, too; tapas-style dishes served to a backdrop of blues music. Our highlights were crispy polenta and a tender steak topped with mushrooms.
But lunch at La Table left us speechless. We ate on the terrace overlooking the garden, but you can also opt to eat in the converted barn and watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. We feasted on a mushroom 'risotto' (rice was substituted with diced enoki - golden needle mushrooms) covered with truffle, an oozing cheese board, and a sublime crunchy pastry filled with tangy fresh fruit.
We didn’t try Le Thai, but the villagers assure us it’s mind-blowing: French ingredients effortlessly blended with Thai aromas. Other restaurants are a drive away.
Activities
Visit Le Cave. This spectacular building is shaped like a wine bottle, and coated in cork imported from Portugal. Take a tour to see how the estate's wines are made before doing a tasting on the terrace overlooking the vines
Relax and unwind. Swim in the pools, laze in the gardens, sip wine in the town square, and book a massage
Take a tour of the estate. The rolling vineyards are bordered by snow-topped mountains and dense forest. Go by buggy or on foot
Make the most of the gastronomy on offer. There are cookery classes and bread-making workshops. For lunch, ask for a picnic or BBQ amongst the olive trees
Revel in the region; rent the hotel’s Vespas or vintage Citroens and tootle around the winding roads of the stunning Haut Languedoc. We’d suggest you visit Minerve for coffee and cake, and take a boat trip on the Canal du Midi
